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LATEST EDITION ^ 



Richmond Guide Book 

Sketches and Views of 

Richmond, Virginia 

Supplemented by SkeJches of 

Williamsburg, Jamestown, Yorktown 



DESCRIPTION AND MAP 
HISTORIC BATTLEFIELDS 



Location Given of all Pictures in Book 



i 



M. A. ^URGESS. Publisher 

RICHMOND. VA . 1909 



\^1.'2. V 



r~-.- .. .. 



Printed by 

RICHMOND PRESS, Inc. 
Richmond, Va. 



r^eceived from 

Copyright Office. 
DEC 3 1909 



© 






C1«. A, 






JUL 


15 


1909 










CITY HALL. 



Copyrighted 1903 




ICHMOND ON THE JAMES" is 

one of the most interesting histor- 
ical cities in the United States. The 
natural beauty of this city on her 
' ' seven hills ' ' excites surprise — 
hills and dales, and the beautiful 
''falls of the James" are objects 
that please the eye, and travelers are loud in their 
praises of the beauty of this lovely city of the 
South. Nature has done much to beautify Richmond 
— but it is not the beauty of the city alone that calls 
for the admiration of all who come within her 
borders, but the fact that its early history is so 
fraught with stirring scenes of frontier life and ro- 
mantic incidents that their recital must form a 
pleasing link between the old era of the seventeenth 
century and the new era which began with the 
Civil War, nearly one hundred years later. 

The site of the city of Richmond is upon the very 
spot occupied not only by the most famous Indian 
tribes known to history (under the mighty King 
Powhatan, father of Pocahontas), but the first Eng- 
lish settlers, who, after depositing their goods and 
families at Jamestown, continued their journey 
tip the James River to Richmond, where the falls of 



6 Richmond Guide Book. 

the river made it impossible for them to proceed 
further. 

Tradition tells us the mighty chief Powhatan had 
his camping ground very near the city, and his 
tomb is pointed out to visitors just below the city 
on what is known as the "Mayo home." 

Here also the British soldiers marched when 
Arnold and Tarleton invaded Richmond in the last 
year of the Revolutionary War. 

The "Capitol Square" was also the place from 
which many of the Confederate soldiers of the late 
war were mustered into service — under Lee and 
Jackson. 

The object of this little book is to furnish to the 
traveler facts in the early history of Richmond, its 
many places of interest as well as an up-to-date 
guide to Ihe cit3^ and to extend to all a "welcome, 
thrice welcome to Richmond." 

"Richmord on the James" is situated at the head 
of tidewater, one hundred miles from Newport 
News, which is a great shipbuilding point. 

The site on which Eichmond is built was discov- 
ered by Newport and Capt. John Smith in 1607. 

Col. William Byrd founded Richmond in 1737, and 
in 1742 it was incorporated into a town. 

In 1779 the capitol, which had been until then 
in Williamsburg, was moved to Richmond. The 



8 Richmond Guide Book. 

foundation of the present Capitol Building was laid 
in 1785 and completed in 1792, the model from which 
it was built being one made in France for Thomas 
Jefferson, which is now carefully preserved in the 
State Library, where it is the object of much in- 
terest to the crowds of visitors who visit there. 
Richmond was incorporated into a city in 1782, at 
which time there were comparatively few houses 
with a population of a little over three thousand. 

The streets of Richmond are divided by Main 
street into North and South, those above Main be- 
ing called "North Ninth" or "Tenth," as the case 
may be, and are cross streets, and are designated 
numerically. Those running parallel with Main are 
called by name in the following order: Gary, Main, 
Franklin, Grace, Broad, Marshall, Clay and Leigh. 
Foushee street is the dividing line, as streets east 
of Foushee are called East Main and those west of 
it are called West Main, etc. The crossings are 
marked by small signs on the corner of houses. 

In 1811 the burning of the theater was one of 
the greatest calamities that ever befell the city. 
The Governor of the State, with seventy other per- 
sons, perished. Monumental Episcopal Church be- 
tweeen 12th and 13th on Broad street, marks the 
spot where the theatre stood. 



•' *4 




;'■ J, <Ai' y^<'i^- 



10 RicrriMOND Guide Book. 

St. John's church, Twenty-fifth and Broad streets, 
is a place of much interest, where in 1775, the Con- 
vention met in which Patrick Henry made his 
famous speech and sounded the keynote of American 
Liberty when he said, "Give me liberty or give me 
death." It is always open to visitors. 

The Governor's Mansion — in the eastern part of 
the Capitol Square is one of the most interesting 
buildings in Richmond. In 1790, the capital, by 
an act of the Virginia Assembly, was removed from 
Williamsburg to Richmond, and a "square" of land 
designated for the Governor's Mansion and public 
buildings. The governor at that time was Thomas 
Jefferson. A two-story frame building was erected 
where now stands the present mansion, which is 
modern in every particular and beautifully finished 
in the most beautiful manner. The mansion as it 
now stands was completed in 1815. King Edward 
VII. of England, was a guest at the mansion in 1860 
—when as the "Prince of Wales" he was enter- 
tained by Gov. Letcher. President and Mrs. Hayes 
were guests there in 1877; Grover Cleveland in 
1886; President McKinley in 1899, and President 
Roosevelt in 1906. Beautiful walks and drives and 
rare plants and trees surround the mansion. 

Other dates of interest will be found throughout 
this book, the most important being illustrated with 



Richmond. Virginia. 



11 



special cuts and information that has been furnished 
by the highest authority. 

This book would hardly be complete without 
special mention of the squirrels in the Capitol 
h'quare. They are fed each day by a convict, who 
gives them cracked walnuts and hickory nuts. A 
whistle is blown, to which they respond as readily 
as the human family would to a dinner bell. They 
are a constant source of delight to the visitors and 
children, and are exceedingly tame. 




EXECUTIVE MANSION. 



j^ Richmond Guide Book:. 



A^ magnificent picture of Yorktown is seen in the 
old Senate chamber of the Capitol Building 

The old stove or "warming machine," was made in 
1770. Buzaglo, an Englishman was the manufacturer. 
It is a quaint three story affair. It is of much in- 
terest to visitors. 

The "Speaker's Chair," made in 1700, — used hy 
the speakers in the "House of Burgesses" in Colonial 
times, is a most interesting relic of by-gone-days — 
both stove and chair are to be seen in the rotunda of 
the Capitol. 

After -visiting the Capitol and State Library the 
stranger is in the near vicinity of a great many 
points of interest, which can be visited by the aid 
of this guide book with all ease. 

Richmond is a growing city, and it is hard to 
realize, as you see the magnificent buildings erected 
or in process of erection, that in 1865 it was almost 
destroyed by fire during the evacuation, when the 
Federal troops were entering the city. A great 
many fine views are to be had from the hills about 
the city and from the top of the Capitol Building 
and the tower in the City Hall. James River can be 
traced for miles as it fiows on to join the waters of 
Chesapeake Bay. Richmond now has a population 
of 125,000 and covers an area of about five to seven 
miles. 



^MNs^^r^ 




WASHINGTON MONUMENT. 



l^i Richmond Guide Book. 

The city police force is composed of men of whom 
the city may well be proud. They are gentlemanly 
and polite, and are ever watchful of the interests of 
not only the residents of the city, but strangers as 
well, and ready to render any service. 

Over the roads leading into the ci1y from every 
direction marched the weary soldiers of both armies 
during the late war, and near the river just below 
Gallego Mills is the site of Libby Prison, which was 
moved to Chicago during the AVorld's Fair. The 
ground is now occupied by an ice plant. 

Around the city, almost within its corporate 
limits, are still to be seen "breastworks" thrown 
out by the armies camping around the city as a 
defense. Bullets, balls and buckles are dug from 
these embankments. Within a short distance from 
the city were fought the battles of Yellow Tavern, 
Cold Harbor, Seven Pines, Strawberry Hill, Malvern 
Hill, Mechanicsville, Gaines' Mill and Savage Sta- 
tion. The history of the Seven Days' Fight around 
Richmond is written in blood ! 

History of the Washington Monument. 

Richmond, in its eagerness to do honor to its 
heroes, will soon outrival the famous "Monumental 
City." The first in importance is the statue of 



Richmond^ Vikginia. 15 

Washington, by Crawford. The corner-s.one was 
laid in 1850, Febrnary 15th. It was dedicated Feb- 
ruary 22, 1858. The monument is 60 feet in height, 
from the base on which it stands to the crown of the 
hat is 15 feet and was built at a cost of $260,000. 
The history of the allegorical figures surrounding 
Ihe monument — six in number — are taken from de- 
scriptions given in a letter from Randolph Rogers, 
written from Rome in 1860 to Governor Letcher 
of Virginia. They are supposed to represent events 
explaining deeds of valor connected with lives of 
the persons before whose statues they stand — as 
follows : 

First— Revolution (Patrick Henry), Represented 
with a sword in her right hand; pointing with her 
left to crown which is crushed under her foot. 

Second — Independence (Jefferson). Her eyes are 
turned toward. Heaven; in her right hand she grasps 
a portion of the chain which she has burst asunder, 
and with her left foot she casts a portion of it at 
her feet. 

Third— Justice (Marshall). In her left hand she 
holds the bar of the scales, which are resting on her 
laix and in her right hand a sword. 

Fourth — Finance (Nelson). Her left hand is rest- 
ing on a book, and with her right hand she holds a 
cornucopia, from which corn is flowing. 



Washington Statue. 

SY H0U»ON. IN THt. CAf»ITOI-. 




HOUDON'S STATUE OF WASHINGTON. 



KiCHMOND_, Virginia. 17 

Fifiii— Bill of Rights (Mason). Her left hand is 
resiing on a scroll, supposed to be the bill of rights. 
She leans forward wiih a drawn sword, resting on 
that document as if to defend it. 

JSixch — Colonial campaigns (Lewis). In one hand 
she holds the palm of victory. Under her feet are 
Indian arms— arrows, bows, &c. In her right hand 
she holds the axe, and her head is decked with 
sheaves of wheat, symbolic of the peaceful settle- 
ment of the country and its agriculture. 

A narrow spiral stairway ascends within the 
statue, opening directly beneath the horse on which 
Washington is seated. 

The Houdon statue of Washington was made from 
life, eight years before his death — the only one in 
existence and is justly celebrated. It is said that 
"Washington, in company with Lafayette viewed 
tlie statue from the southwestern corner of the 
rotunda of the Capitol." The statue stands in the 
((^iitcr of the rotunda of the Capitol. It is sur- 
rounded by a high iron railing and bears the fol- 
lowing inscription : 

'TIEORGE WASHINGTON." 

''The General Assembly of the Commonwealth of 
Virginia have caused this statue to be erected as a 



18 



RTCH]\roND Guide Book. 



monument of affection and gratitude to George 
Washington, who adding to the endowments of 
the hero — virtues of the patriot, and exerting both 
in establishing the liberties .of his country, has 
rendered his name dear to his fellow citizens and 




JACKSON'S MONUMENT. 



Richmond^ Virginia. 19 

given the world an immortal example of true glory. 
Done in the year of Christ, one thousand seven 
hundred and eighty-eight, and in the year of the 
Commonwealth, the 12th." 

This statue is viewed by thousands and is of much 
interest. 

The Stonewall Jackson Monument, also seen di- 
rectly opposite the City Hall, in the Capitol grounds, 
is a fine work of art in bronze. It was the gift of 
English admirers and is the work of the sculptor 
Foley. The statue was dedicated October 26, 1875. 

Henry Clay's monument, also seen in the Capitol 
Square, is a beautiful statue by Hart, and was dedi- 
cated in 1860. 

Lee Monument, situated in what is known as "Lee 
District, ' ' in the w^estern part of the city, is the work 
of Mercie, a French sculptor, and is a fine work of 
art. 

The statue of Ex-Governor "William Smith, which 
stands at the northwestern corner of the Capitol 
Square was presented by the family of the ex-gov- 
ernor and nnveiled on May 30th, 1906. Gov. Smith 
served two terms as governor, and was, in conse- 
quence of serving an extra term — called by his 
friends "Extra Billy." He was a brave soldier in 
the Confederate army. The statute was designed by 
W. L. Sheppard, of Richmond. 



'^O 



KicHMOND Guide Book. 




HENRY CLAY STATUE. 



A most peculiar bronze medal of John Smith, js 
placed in the rotunda of the Capitol near the Wash- 
ington Monument, while another of Jeb Stuart and 
John Marshall are also near by. 




LEE MONUMENT. 



22 



KiCHMOND Guide Book. 



The Howitzer's statue, in bronze, was desigaed by 
W. L. Sheppard, a Richmond artist. 

A fine statue of General Wiekham is seen in Mon- 
roe Park. It was designed by E. V. Valentine, ci 
Richmond. 

The statute of A. P. Hill is on the drive from the 
Boulevard to the Brook road. 

The monument to the Confederate dead, in Holly- 
wood Cemetery, is built of Virginia granite and is 
an imposing statue. 




JEFFERSON DAVIS MONUMENT. 



KiCHMOND^ Virginia. 23 

The Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, in Libby 
Hill Park, was designed by W. L. Sheppard, of 
Richmond, and is a tribute to the private soldiers 
and sailors of the Confederacy. The view from 
Libby Hill is one of the finest to be had in the city, 
and crowds during the summer season take ad- 
vantage of the pleasant seats furnished in the park. 

The Morgan drinking fountain erected in April, 
1909, at Shockoe Square, is a memorial to "One who 
loved animals." 

A most fearful disaster occurred in the Capitol 
Building, April 27, 1870, in which sixty-five persons 
were killed. It was during a session of court in 
which the question of "Carpet Bag" was being dis- 
cussed, and an immense crowd had gathered in the 
gallery in the House of Delegates and the unusual 
weight caused the floor to give way. It fell into the 
hall below and buried the people under the timbers. 
Many persons were badly injured. 

The State Agricultural Department. 

The State Capitol contains the Governor's office, 
Register of the Land office, the Superintendent of 
Public Instruction, Senate and Legislative halls, and 
the Agricultural Department, which is one of the 
most interesting places in the city for visitors. In 



24 KiCHMOND Guide Book. 

magnificent modern show cases are shown every 
product of Virginia, from the mountains to the sea. 
Twenty-five large cases, filling the old "House of 
Eepresentatives" (in which the Confederate Con- 
gress was held) and also the room above, display 
the fruits, grains, etc., of the State. 

In the center case fruits of various kinds are on 
exhibit, to the right is a different display of fruits, 
to the left a case of birds, another of stuffed animals. 
Grains of various kinds have a large exhibit, while 
the fishes, minerals, tobacco, etc., etc., are shown 
in large quantities. One special case contains a 
typical Virginia cabin made entirely of tobacco, 
beautiful transparent pictures are also shown. Vir- 
ginia "Home Seekers" throng the lovely "Agri- 
cultural" Department." 

State Library. 

The State Library is the most important library 
in the South. The circulation of the books is 
limited but the reference department is for the gen- 
eral public and is largly patronized. The stranger's 
table is a feature unique and characteristic of the 
people. The guide books, histories of Richmond and 
leaflets which may be useful to tourists are kept 
here ; a cordial invitation stands on the table sug- 



Richmond^ Virginia. 25 

gestiiig the spot as a convenient one for writing. 
Stationery is also kept there for the use of visitors. 
Dr. II. R. Mcllvv^aine is State Librarian. 

The State Library contains some of the most in- 
teresting books on ancient history to be found in 
the United States, and are of untold value. They 
are arranged in handsome showcases. Some of the 
works are not to be found in any other known col- 
lection. Among otter valuable articles is the first 
Virginia newspaper that published the Declaration 
of Independence, and contains the Declaration in 
full, and is dated "July 26th, 1776." A fine col- 
lection of maps is shown in the first showcase in the 
lower gallery. 

Portraits in Lov/er Part of Portrait Gallery, Vir- 
ginia State Library. 

The portraits seen in the State Library are persons 
connected with Virginia's history from its infancy 
to the present day, and are arranged as follows: 

Indian Princess Pocahontas — who saved the life 
of Capt. John Smith — daughter of King Powhatan. 

History of Pocahontas ' Portrait. 

The portrait of Pocahontas is the only one in exist- 
ence, painted from life. The painter is unknown. 



26 RiCHMOi^D Guide Book. 

but was painted when she was 21 years of age. Wm. 
Sheppard, of Richmond, was sent by the Governor 
of Virginia to Norfolk, England, to copy the one 
now hanging in the State Library, from the original, 
which hangs in Barton Rectory, Norfolk, England, 
and was painted in 1616. 

Martha Washington— Born, 1732—1802. 

Lady Spotswood — Wife of Lord Spotswood. 

Mary Randolph — A descendant of Pocahontas, 
and wife of Col. Archibald Gary. 

George Rogers Clark— Born, 1752; died, 1818; 
hero of the Northwestern Expedition. 

James Madison — President of the United States. 

George Washington — First President of the 
United States; born, 1732; died, 1799. 

Count Rochambeau, who was in command of the 
French forces, at the surrender of Lord Cornwallis, 
at Yorktown in 1781. 

John Randolph, of Roanoke— A famous Virginia 
orator ; born, June 2d, 1773 ; died, June 24th, 1833. 

George Mason — Born, 1725; author of Virginia 
Bill of Rights. 

Richard Henry Lee — Father of Henry Lee (Light 
Horse Harry.). 

George W. Munford— Born, 1803; died, 1882. 

Henry Clay — ^Born, April 2d, 1777; died, June 
29th, 1852. 







o 

H- 1 
P 

w 

I— t 
w 



28 Richmond Guide Book. 

Robert E. Lee— Born, 1807 ■ died, Oct. 12th, 1870 ; 
Commander-in-Chief of the Confederate States; por- 
trait by Elder. 

George E. Pickett. — Born, 1825 ; ciied, 1875 ; gener- 
al in the Confederate Army, and immortalized him- 
self at the battle of Gettysburg, in his famous charge 
against the Federal forces. 

Thomas J. (Stonewall) Jackson— Born, 1824; died 
in 1863; a noted general in the Confederate Army; 
was mortally wounded by his own men, who mistook 
him for an enemy; was wounded at the battle of 
Chancellorsville, May 2d, 1863. 

Matthew F. Maury — Born, 1806; died, 1873; com- 
mander of United States Navy. 
. John Taylor, of Caroline county. 

Wm. H. Cabell— Born, 1772; died, 1853; Governor 
of Virginia from 1805 to 1808. 

Spencer Roane — Governor of Virginia. 

Peter Francisco — A Virginia giant of Revolution- 
ary fame; weighing 260 pounds; 6 feet and 1 inch in 
height; died, Jan. 17th, 1831. 

JohnvBuchanan— Born, 1743; died, 1822; Rector 
of the Episcopal Church of Richmond. 

William S. Archer— Born, 1789 ; died, 1855 ; United 
States Senator from 1841 to 1847. 

Rev. -John A. Broadus — An eminent Baptist di- 
vine. 



Etciimond^ Virginia. 29 

J. E. B. Stuart— Born, 1833; died, 1864; mortally 
wounded at the battle of Yellow Tavern. 

Portrait of Christopher Columbus; artist not 
known. 

Hon. John Y. Mason. 

Hon. John Goode — President of the Constitutional 
Convention held in Riehmond, 1902. 

Governor Nicholas. 
Edmond P. Pendleton. 

Chief-Justice John Marshall — Born, Sept. 24, 
1755 ; died, July 6, 1835. 
Matthew W. Maury. 
Gen'l Elliott. 

Merriwether Lewis— Born, 1774; died 1809. He, 
in company with Clarke, went as an explorer 
through the Northwestern part of the United States. 

Gen'l. A. P. Hill— Born, 1825; killed near Peters- 
burg in 1865. 

W. H. Harrison — President of the United States. 

James Jones — Member Congress 1819 to 1823 ; 
died, 1848. 

J. D. Blair — A noted Presbyterian divine. 
John P. Thompson — Editor of Southern Literary 
Messenger— Born, 1823; died, 1873. 



30 Richmond Guide Book. 

Portraits in Upper Part of Gallery, Virginia State 

Library. 

Capt. John Smith — Governor of Virginia in earl}' 
Colonial days; died, 1632; portrait by Sheppard. 

Lord Delaware — Appointed Governor of Virginia 
in 1610; died, June 8Lh, 1618; portrait by Sheppard. 

Portrait of Percy — Brigadier General in Revolu- 
tionary War. 

Portrait of Culpepper^ — By Sheppard — Governor 
of Virginia, 1680 to 1683; died, 1719. 

Lord Howard — Commissioned Governor of Vir- 
ginia 1683; from the original portrait by AV. L. 
Sheppard. 

Lord Spottswood — Appointed Royal Governor of 
Virginia, 1710; serving until 1722. 

John Robinson — Speaker of the House of Bur- 
gesses for 28 years. 

Portrait — By Sheppard— of Thomas Lee. 

Lord William Nelson — Royal Governor of Vir- 
ginia; born, 1711; died, 1772. 

Lord Dunmore— Born, 1732; died, June 8, 1790; 
last Royal Governor of Virginia ; copied from orig- 
inal portrait by Sheppard. 

Patrick Henry — ^Born, May 29, 1736 ; died, June 
6, 1799; portrait by Sully. 

Thomas Jefferson — President of the United States ; 



EicHMOND, Virginia. 



31 




CONFEDERATE SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT 



32 Richmond Guide Book. 

born April 13, 1742; died, July tttli, 1826; was Gov- 
ernor of Virginia and author of the Declaration of 
Independence. 

Thos. Nelson — Royal Governor of Virginia; born, 
December 26th, 1738; portrait by Sheppard, 

Edmund Randolph — Born, August 10th, 1753; 
Governor of Virginia, 1786 to 1788; first Attorney- 
General in 1789. 

Robert Brooke— Born, 1754; died, 1799; Gover- 
nor of Virginia, 1796-1798 ; portrait by Sheppard. 

Harry Lee ("Light Horse Harry") father of 
Gen'l. R. E. Lee; author of the famous phrase, 
in pronouncing an eulogy on George Washington, 
''First in war, first in peace, and first in the hearts 
of his countrymen;" Governor of Virginia. 1792- 
1795; died, March 25th, 1818; copied from the orig- 
inal Stuart ; copy by Sheppard. 

James Monroe — President of the United States, 
and author of the famous "Monroe Doctrine;" born, 
April 25, 1758; died, July 4th, 1831. 

John Page — Lieutenant-Governor of the State ; 
afterw^ard elected Governor ; born, April 1~, 1743 : 
died, Oct. 11, 1808. 

Wm. H. Cabell— Born, 1772; died 1853; Governor 
of the State, 1805-1808. 

John Tyler, Sr.— Born, Feb. 28th, 1747; died, Jan, 
6th, 1813 ; Governor of Virginia in 1808. 



Uiv;HMOND^ Virginia. 33 

Ilog'e Tyler — Governor of Virginia, 1899 +o 1.902. 

George W. Smith — Governor of Virginia; born, 
1762 ; died, 1811 lost his life in the barnin,-.^ of the 
theatre in 1811. 

James Barbour — Born, 1775 ; died, 1842 ; Governor 
of Virginia in 1811. 

William Smith — Born, Sept. 6, 1797; Governor of 
Virginia in 1845 and again, 1862; died, May 18th, 
1887. 

John B. Floyd — Born, 1806 ; died, 1863 ; Governor 
of Virginia, 1849 to 1853. 

Joseph Johnston — Governor of Virginia ; born. 
1785; died, 1877. 

James McDowell — Born, 1795; died, 1851; Gover- 
nor of Virginia, 1843 to 1846. 

Henry A. Wise— Born, 1802; died, 1876; Governor 
of Virginia, 1855 to 1859 ; portrait by Elder. 

John Rutherford — Born, 1792; died, 1866; Gover- 
nor of Virginia, 1841. 

J. W. Patton. 

Thomas W. Gilmer— Born, 1802; died, 1844. 

John Letcher — Born, 1813; died, 1884; Governor 
of Virginia, 1859-1863. 

Gilbert C. Walker— Born, 1832; died, 1885; Gover- 
nor of Virginia, 1869 ; first Governor after the war 
and during what was known as the "Reconstruction 
period;" native of New York. 



34 KicHMOi^D Guide Book. 

David Campbell — 1779; died, 1859; Governor of 
Virginia, 1836 to 1840. 

Wy^ndham Eobertson— Born, 1803; died, 1888; 
Governor of Virginia. 

L. W. Tazewell— Born, 1774; died, I860; Gover- 
nor of Virginia from 1834 to 1836. 

John Floyd — Born, 1783 ; died, 1837 ; Governor of 
Virginia from 1830 to 1834. 

James L. Kemper — Born, 1823; Governor of Vir- 
ginia, 1874. 

Fred. W. M. Holliday — Governor of Virginia from 
1878 to 1882. 

W. E. Cameron — Governor of Virginia; portrait 
by Sheppard.- 

Fitzhugli Lee — Governor of Virginia from 1886 
to 1890; was also appointed as Military General by 
the President to take charge of the island of Cuba 
after the Spanish- American War. 

Wm. B. Giles— Born, 1762; died, 1830. 

Wm. H. Roane— Born, 1788; died, 1845. 

John Tyler — President of the United States. 

Charles T. O'Ferrall — Governor of Virginia from 
1894 to 1898. 

Philip W. McKinney — Born, 1834; Governor of 
Virginia from 1890 to 1894. 

Wm. Cabell Elves — United States Senator; born, 
4793; died, 1868. 



Richmond^ Virginia. 35 

James P. Preston— Born, 1774; died, 1843; Gov- 
ernor of Virginia, 1816 to 1819. 

The State Library Building is an annex to the 
State Capitol Building. The old and valuable por- 
traits which used to adorn the walls of the rotunda 
in the Capitol are now placed on exhibition in the 
Library Building, as are also the books, of which 
there are about 80,000 volumes. The reading room 
of the Library is the resort of the most cultured peo- 
ple of the city and State. Every attention is shown 
the visitor by the State Librarian. The Librarv 
is kept open from 9 in the morning until 10 at night 
for the accommodation of the public. 

Souvenirs of an antique and historic nature are 
to be had at reasonable rates, also guide-books. 

In a large showcase in the Library Building may 
be seen the following interesting articles : The 
model of the Capitol made for Thomas Jefferson 
while he was Minister to France, in 1785; the flag 
of the Confederacy, used on the State house during 
the war; cane of Patrick Henry, with sword en- 
closed; horn drinking cup of Lord Cornwallis, taken 
at Yorktown, 1781; revolutionary flag; gun from 
the battle of the Crater; canteen taken from the 
body of a dead Union soldier at Spotsylvania Court- 
house; pike of John Brown, taken at tiarper's Ferry 
in 1859 by Col. R. E. Lee ; Peter Francisco 's sword ; 



36 



KiCHMOTsTD Guide Book. 




A. p. HILL MONUMENT. 



Richmond^ Yikginia. 37 

sen I of the Confederacy; hr(nist{)late taken from the 
body of a dead Union soldier after the battle of 
Seven Pines; and numerous other things. 

Amongst articles of value and interest in the State 
Library is a number of valuable busts, among them 
being Chief Justice Marshall, Gen'l. Fitzhugh Lee, 
John Tyler, Dan'l. Webster, J. E. B. Stuart and 
Gen'l. Lafayette. 

Among the old. newspapers is a copy of the Wil- 
liamsburg Gazette, dated "July 26ih, 1776," the 
first copy published after the signing of the "De- 
claration of Independence" and containing a copy of 
the same. 

A great many interesting historical papers are 
seen in the State Library, among which is the origi- 
nal parole of Lord. Cornwallis, written in 1781, at 
the surrender of Yorktown, and signed by Corn- 
wallis. Origin, of the "stars and stripes," taken 
from the coat-of-arma of the Washington family. 

Autograph letters of Lafaye'te, George Washing- 
ton, R. E. Lee, Daniel Boone, Edgar Allan Poe and 
many others; the bail bond, of Jefferson, Davis, 
signed, by Horace Greeley and. Cornelius Yanderbilt 
and. others is seen. The marriage bond, of Thomas 
Jefferson and th(» last letter written, by Stonewall 
Jackson (just before he was fatally wounded) to 
General Lee is seen in. a frame; s'lhouettes of John 



38 RiCHMOisTD Guide Book. 

Randolph, John Marshall and numbers of small pic- 
tures are among the colleetion. In the entrance to 
the Library is seen a painting of the bombardment 
of Fort Sumter and the picture of Edmond Ruffin, 
who fired the first gun; Jeff Davis and his generals 
and a number of other pictures. 

Among the most interesting departments in the 
State Library Building is that of the Supreme Court 
room — rare books, and busts, and life size portraits 
of the following famous judges of Virginia, are to 
be seen : 

Judge Baldwin, Judge Reily, Judge Lewis, Judge 
Staples, Judge Burke, Judge Anderson, Judge 
Roane, Judge Moncure, Judge Clopton, Judge Lo- 
max, Judgo Brooke, Judge Allen, Judge Robertson, 
Judge Naih, Judge Lyons, Judge Brockenbrough, 
Judge LTpshur, Judge Cabell, Judge D. Christian, 
Judge Johnson. 

The judges of the present Supreme Court are : 
James Keith, president; Hon. Geo. M. Harrison, 
Hon. Richard H. Cardwell, Hon. John A. Buchanan, 
Hon. Stai¥ord G. Whittle; H. Stewart Jones, clerk, 
Keith Taylor, assistant clerk; Maj. H. C. Carter, 
tipstaff. 



Richmond. Virginia. 



39 




HOWITZER MONUMENT. 



40 Richmond Guide Book. 

Law Library. 

The Law and Literary Library were combined un- 
til 1870, when they were separated. 

The Law Library is now on the 2nd floor of the 
State Library Building, and covers the entire floor 
with the exception of the Attorney-General's office. 
The Library contains 15,000 volumes. AV. W. Scott, 
Law Librarian. Edward Brown (colored), has been 
janitor of the Law Library 36 years. 

The Library Building also contains many other 
State offices, viz., Attorney-General, Auditor, Law 
Library, Adjutant-General, Supreme court room and 
several others. 

A great many "committee rooms" are in the 
Capitol Building. 

The Capitol police are provided by the State, and 
have entire charge of the grounds and buildings, 
and are most courteous to strangers and ready to 
direct visitors to points of interest over the grounds. 

A great many parks adorn the city, which are 
great places of resort during the summer. There are 
eight public parks in Richmond. 

The City Hall is directly opposite the Capitol 
Square, and is a most imposing and beautiful struc- 
ture. It is built of Richmond granite and cost 



42 Richmond Guide Book. 

$1,500,000. It is five stories in heig"lit and is sur- 
mounted by a tower 180 feet high. 

The "White House of the Confederacy" is also 
near, at the corner of Twelfth and Claj^ and was the 
home of President Davis during his official life in 
Richmond. It is now occupied hy the Confederate 
Museum. 

The street-car syste,m of the city is not surpassed 
by any city in the Union, Richmond being the first 
city to have electric cars running at any great 
length. The car lines extend to Seven Pines battle- 
fields and to all points of interest around the city. 
There is also a line running to Petersburg, and per- 
sons taking this line can visit the famous battle- 
field of the Crater. Transfers from one line to an- 
other are given without extra charge. 

Hacks and carriages may be found at the hotels, 
and lined up around the Capitol Square may be 
found many cabs and carriages driven by old coach- 
men who were slaves "befo' de war." 

Taking the car on Broad or Main street the trav- 
eler can conveniently visit old St. John's Church, 
which is immortalized by the fact that herein Pat- 
rick Henry delivered his famous speech, "Give me 
liberty or give me death," and the pew in which he 
stood is marked and shown to visitors. There are 
many curious epitaphs in this old cemetery in which 



Richmond^ Virginia. 43 

the church is situated, and some of the tombs are 
very unique. The oldest grave in the cemetery is 
that of Robert Rose, rector, dated "June 30th,-< 
1751." 

Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument is on Libby Hill, 
near St. John's Church. 

Chimborazo Park is near Libby Hill, and during 
the Civil War the largest Confederate hospital in 
the city was in this park. 

Oakwood Cemetery, nearby the park, contains 
the graves of 16,000 Confederate soldiers. 

The Battle Abbey of the Confederacy will short- 
ly be erected in the west end of the city. 

The old Masonic Hall, on Franklin and Nine- 
teenth streets, is the oldest one in the country, its 
corner-stone being laid in 1785, wherein a reception 
was given General Lafayette on his visit to the 
United States. 

Richmond is well supplied with banks, which are 
situated along Main street. 

The Chamber of Commerce is one of the finest 
l:uildings in that line in the South. It was erected 
in 1893. 

One of the most historic churches in Richmond is 
St. Paul's Episcopal. It was here a telegram from 
General Lee was received by Jefferson Davis (as he 
was attending service) that Richmond must be 



44 



RiCHMOXD Guide Book. 




ST. PAUL'S CHURCH. 



evacuated. It was done, and the Union troops at 
once entered the city. Richmond was evacuated 
April 2, 1865. 

The "Virginia Historical" building, on Franklin 
street between Eighth and Ninth, was the home of 



Richmond^ Virginia. 



45 



General R. E. Lee during his stay in Richmond. It is 
now a museum of portraits, and has a valuable li- 
brary. 

The Young Men's Chrislian Association is a monu- 
ment in part to the late D. L. Moody. It is on the 
corner of Sixth and Main. New building Seventh 
and Grace. 

Near the Y. M. C. A. is the early home of Edgar 
Allan Poe, Fifth and Main. 

Belle Isle, an island in James River, opposite the 
city, is where the Federal prisoners were confined 
during the war. 




NEW Y. M. c. A. 



46 



Richmond Guide Book. 



i /I- 



Richmond is one of the great trade centers of the 
South. Its tobacco interests are immense. A great 
many factories and foundries are in full operation, 
while the Richmond Locomotive Works are sending 
engines all over the world. 

The schools and colleges of the city are of high 
order. ; ; • 

Battle-Fields. 

Richmond, during the Civil War, was the center 
of the ''mighty conflict." "On to Richmond" was 
the constant cry, and it seemed the one thing most- 




FEDERAL BREASTWORKS AT SEVEN PINES. 



KiCHMOND^ Virginia. 47 

ly to be desired. The suffering in the city among 
the oppressed people was something terrible, and 
while there has been much blame attached to the 
people of Richmond by some for the awful suffer- 
ing among the prisoners held among them, many 
persons outside of the prisons unused to want and 
hardships were faring very little better themselves. 
Among the nearest battle-fields to Richmond is that 
of Seven Pines or Fair Oaks. The Clay street or 
Broad street cars will take one out to the battle- 
field. The Clay street line, however, is more di- 
rect. All along the car lines may be seen old forti- 
fications and breast-works that still remain. This 
Seven Pines battle was fought May 31, 1862, and 
was a most severe conflict. The Confederates were 
under the command of General R. B. Lee and the 
Federals under General McClellan. The Confed- 
erates failed to accomplish their purpose, which was 
the capture or destruction of this advance corps. 

The battle was continued on June 1st, but without 
any decided result for either side. The loss on the 
Federal side was 5,000 and the Confederates 6,000. 

Meehanicsville was the first of the ''seven days' 
fight around Richmond." The fight opened June 26, 
1862, by A. P. Hill division, which crossed the 
Chickahominy at Meadow Bridge, followed by Long- 
street and D. H. Hill, who crossed at Meehanicsville. 



48 Richmond Guide Book. 

Jackson did not arrive until next day. Fitz Jolin 
Porter was commanding this wing, and, finding 
Jackson approaching, retired during the night to 
Beaver Dam creek. 

Mechanicsville was six. miles from Cold Harbor 
and Gaines Mill, nine miles from. Richmond, The 
battles fought at these places were among the most 
severe of the war. 

The length of Jackson's line of march delayed his 
arrival and his meeting with. Hill and Longstreet. 
He, however, got his troops into position and. made 
an assault on the Federal works and forced Porter 
to retreat. 

Lee's forces amounted to about 47,000 against 
35.000 of Porter's command. 

Savage Station was the third battle fought — 
June 29, 1862. Magruder's division against the 
Federals. 

Frazier's Farm, or Glendale, was the next conflict 
—June 30, 1862. 

The next battle was at Malvern Hill — July 1, 
1862 — McClellan commanding the Federals, Gen- 
eral Lee the Confederates. 

Cold Harbor was the scene of another battle in 
Grant's campaign of 1864. Here General Grant 
suffered the most disastrous results of the war, los- 
ing 13,000 men in less than an hour. The troops 



50 RiCHMOi^D Guide Book. 

scattered and could not be urged to renew the con- 
flict. 

The battle of Yellow Tavern was fought May 11, 
1864. It defeated Sheridan's raid and saved Rich- 
mond from capture. 

Fort Harrison, near the river, eight miles below 
Richmond, was captured by the Federal troops Sep- 
tember 29, 1864. An attempt next day to recover 
proA^ed futile. 

Chaffin'a Bluff is situated directly on the river a 
short distance from Drewry's Bluff. An attack was 
made on Drewry's Bluff on May 15, 1862, by the 
gunboats Monitor, Galena and others. 

Dutch Gap and the Howlett house are a few miles 
below Chaffin's Bluff on the river, Dutch Gap is 
a canal cut through a narrow neck of land, around 
which, the river makes a bend. It was begun dur- 
ing the war in 1864, and completed after the war, 
and is now used by boats and steamers. The canal 
is a very short cut, saving a distance of some 8 miles 
hi following the regular course of the river. 

Churches. 

Among the most noted churches in Richmond is 
Monumental Episcopal Church on Broad street be- 
low Twelfth. It was in process of building in 1812, 



Rtcttmond. Ytrgtnia. 



51 




MONUMENTAL CHURCH. 



1813 and 1814, when it was completed. It is built 
on w^iat was called one hundred and sixteen years 
ago "Theatre Square." Richmond's first theatre 
was built in 1786. In that building the Convention 
met that ratified the Constitution of the United 
States. Attending the Convention were James Mad- 
ison and James Monroe, Edmond Pendleton, George 
Mason and Patrick Henry. This building was de- 
stroyed by fire in 1802. A new one soon arose. 
This second building was burned December 26, 1811. 



5ii KiCHMOND Guide Book. 

A play, the "Bleeding Nun," was being played, and 
a large crowd was in attendance. Among others 
was the Governor, who perished with seventy-two 
others in the flames. The ashes of the lost lie in 
a sealed vault at the southern entrance to the church, 
and their names are on a monument in the south 
portico of the church. 

Among the communicants of Monumental Church, 
was Chief Justice John Marshall; his pew is shown 
visitors, and is marked, "John Marshall, 1814." 

Methodist. — There are seventeen Methodist church- 
es in the city and suburbs. 

Wiethodist Orphanage.— The Virginia Conference 
Orphanage is an institution which takes care of desti- 
tute children of both sexes. It is situated one mile 
west of the city on a farm, of sevent}^ acres. 

Presbyterian Churches. — The First Church, Grace 
and Madison streets; Grace St., corner Grace and 
Fourth ; Third Presbyterian CJiurch, Broad and 
Twenty-sixth; Second, Main and Fifth; Manchester; 
Church of the Covenant, Harrison and Park Ave ; 
"Westminster Church, Grove Avenue ; Hoge Memo- 
rial, Franklin and Nineteenth; First Colored 
Church, Monroe and Brook Avenue ; Mizpah Church, 
Chestnut Hill; Fairfield and Overbrook. 

Baptist. — First, organized in 1780; Second, Grace 
Street, Leigh Street, Pine Street, Grove Avenue, Ful- 



RicTrMOND^ Virginia. 53 

ton, Venable Street, Calvary, East End, Fairmount, 
Immanuel, The Tabernacle,- Randolph Street, Col- 
lege View, Barton Heights, Broadus Memorial, 
Highland Park. 

In Manchester there are : Bainbridge Street, 
Stockton Street, Clopton Street, Oak Grove. 

Episcopal.— All Saints, Franklin and Madison; 
Chapel of the Redeemer, Bowling Green Road, Chel- 
sea Hill; Christ, 2120 Venablo street; Holy Trinity, 
(Moore Memorial), Laurel near Main; Epiphany, 
Barton Heighl s ; Grace, Main and Foushee ; Holy 
Comforter, Grove Road; Monumental, 1224-1226 E. 
Broad; St. Andrew's Mission, 619-621 Belvidere; St. 
Andrew's, Laurel and Beverly; St. John's, Twen- 
ty-fourth and Broad; St. Luke's, Washington and 
Beverly; St. James, Fifth and Marshall; St. Mark's 
First and Clay; St. Paul's Mission, Sixth and Bragg 
streets; Weddell Memorial Chapel, 20 Denny. 

Christian or Disciples. — Seventh-Street, Seventh 
and Grace; Marshall-Street, 919 W. Marshall; Third 
Christian, corner Twenty-sixth; West End, 7 N. 
Morris. 

Jewish. — Beth Ahaba Synagogue, W. Franklin; 
Keneseth Israel, 211 Mayo; Sir Moses Montefiore, 
403 n nth. 

Lutheran.— First English, 205 N. Seventh; Bethle- 
Ikmu. r)()2 X. Sixth; St. John's German, Eighth and 
Marshall; Trinity English, 1328 N. Twenty-ninth. 



54 RiciiMOXD Guide Book. 

Catholic— St. Peter's, Eighth and Grace; St. 
Patrick's, 215-217 N. Twenty-fifth; St. Mary's Ger- 
man, 314 E. Marshall; Sacred Heart, Floyd Avenae. 

There are C4 Colored Churches in the city. 



Public Schools. 

Following is a list of the school buildings : 

The magnificent new High School, occupies the 
entire block bounded by Marshall, Clay, Eighth and 
Ninth streets. At the southeast corner stands the 
residence of Chief Justice Marshall. This historic 
home will be used for the principal offices of the 
school. Springfield, Twenty-sixth and Leigh; Belle- 
vue, Broad and Twenty-second ; Marshall, Nineteenth 
and Marshall; Central, No. 407 N. Twelfth; 
Leigh, corner First and Leigh; Madison, No. 
219 W. Cary; Elba, No. 1000 W. Marshall; "West 
End, No. 1520 W. Main ; Randolph, corner Randolph 
and Chaffin; Chimborazo, 33rd and Marshall; Louis- 
iana, Fulton ; Oakwood, 34th and P ; Fairmount, 
Fairmount; Sidney, Sycamore and Cary. 

Colored. — Normal, corner Twelfth and. Leigh ; Ful- 
ton, No. 205 Orleans ; East End, corner Twenty- 



Richmond^ Virginia. 55 

ninth and 0; Valle}', corner Eighteenth and Mar- 
shall; Navy Hill, corner Fifth and Duval; Baker, 
corner St. Paul and Baker; Moore, No. 1113 Moore; 
Monroe, Leigh and St. Peter; Reidsville, Nicholson 
street; Twenty-ninth Street School, Twenty -ninth 
street; Newton, W. Moore street; Sidney, Winder, 
between Meadow and Carter. 

Number schools 336 

Number principals 24 

Number teachers (white) 242 

Numbers teachers (colored) 95 

Total 361 

Colleges. 

Hartshorn Memorial College, on West Leigh street 
and Lombardy Avenue, founded by Joseph C. Harts- 
horn, of Rhode Island, chartered 1884 with full 
collegiate and university powers, has tasteful build- 
ings and fine, ample grounds. The object of the in- 
stitution is the advanced education of young col- 
ored women. It maintains industrial, normal, and 
collegiate departments and music, and lays special 
emphasis upon Biblical and Christian training. 
President, Lyman B. Tefft. 



R 



lICTTMOND. 



V 



IRGINIA. 



The University College of Medicine, founded by 
the late Dr. Hunter McGuire and his associates, is 
located at the northwest corner of Clay and Twelfth 
streets, on the site formerly occupied as a residence 
by Hon. Alexander H. Stephens while Vice-Presi- 
dent of the Confederate States. 

The Virginia Hospital adjoins the University Col- 
lege of Medicine, whose faculty constitute its medi- 
cal and surgical staff. 

The Hunter McGuire Memorial Annex is devoted 
entirely to charitable patients. 

Smithdeal Business College. — ^Ninth and Broad 
streets, is the oldest business college in the State 
and first to own its own building. It has steadily 
grown until it has become one of the best known 
svhoolf-; of its kind in the State. No vacation. Ladies 




6b Richmond Guide Book. 

and gentlemen may enter any department at any 
time. Eates on application. George M. Smittideal, 
principal. 

Medical College of Virginia, corner of Marshall 
and College streets, was established in 1838. This 
was the only medical college in the Confederacy 
which did not close its doors during the four years 
of war between the States. 

Virginia Mechanics Institute, Eleventh and Broad 
streets. 

Richmond College was founded in 1832, and has 
occupied its present site at the head of Franklin 
street since 1834. The College property, including 
grounds, buildings and endowment, is valued at 
$1,200,000. This does not include a recent subscrip- 
tion of $500,000 made by the General Education 
Bbard of New York, citizens of Richmond and 
friends throughout Virginia. 

Richmond College has the standard entrance re- 
quirements of the Southern Association of Colleges 
and Preparatory Schools, and offers courses of in- 
struction leading to the degrees of Bachelor of Arts, 
Bachelor of Science, Master of Arts and Bachelor of 
Laws. The faculty of the College numbers eighteen 
professors and assistants. The students number 
three hundred and come from eighteen States and 
foreign countries. The College also conducts the 



Richmond^ Virginia. 59 

Kiclimond Academy with ten teacherfj and 175 
students, and the Newport News Academy, with 
five teachers and 70 students. The College library 
contains 15,000 bound volumes and several thousand 
copies of Government reports; and pamphlets. The 
College maintains well equipped laboratories for 
instruction in Physics, Chemistry, Biology, Psy- 
chology and Drawing. 

F. W. Boatwright, M. A., LL. D., is president of 
the College. The officers of the trustees are : Lieu- 
tenant-Governor J. Taylor Ellyson, president, and C. 
H. Ryland, D. D., secretary and treasurer. 



Hotels. 

Murphy's Hotel, Richmond, Va. — The most cen- 
trally located Hotel in the city, convenient to the 
wholesale, retail, banking and insurance district. 
Direct car lines to and from every depot. European 
plan. Three hundred and fifty rooms, single and 
en suite rates. One to four dollars per day. Our 
Grace St. Annex, the most absolute fire-proof hotel 
in the South, is connected with the main hotel by a 
handsome sun bridge, and convenient in every way 
with the office. We have recently installed in this 
annex the celebrated Baruch Narheim and Electric 



60 



Richmojntd Guide Book. 



Baths and it is the only hotel in the South possessing' 
this very popular system of baths.- 

Address Murphy's Hotel, Richmond, Va. 



./:.:iiiSS;l^ii'iiiiiiii,!.,,iiliii;i!iiiitL:^ 




'•111, ;;;•;(;!/;;'''■;!!);;' 






Ki('iiM().\i). Vjkginia. 



01 




O 

c 
m 

W 

w 

1-3 



62 



Richmond Guide Book. 



The Jefferson, Richmond, Va. — The remodeled 
portion — Franklin street end — of this mag-nificent 
hotel has been opened for visitors since May 15, 
1902. Since the property came into possession of 
The Jefferson Kealty Corporation, the hotel has 
been rebuilt on a much larger and more magnificent 
scale than originally. Three hundred sleeping 
rooms, with private baths, have been added, with 
cafes, private dining rooms, rathskeller, billiard 
hall, children's play room, sample rooms, conven- 
tion hall, etc., etc. Long distance phone in each 
room. Eailroad, ticket and telegraph offices in 
hotel. Baggage checked to destination. 

Address: The Jefferson, Richmond, Va. 

The Richmond is one of the most elegantly sit- 
uated hotels in the city — jus^ opposite the historic 



•2 ^i ' 




-it* 



tS«i^*<%<^l»?*'*S * 



.«/ 



THE RICHMOND HOTEL. 



RrCTTMOT^D^ ViKGINIA. 63 

Capitol Square — is modern in every respect and 
fire-proof. 

The Davis Hotel. — J. Lee Davis, Proprietor. Op- 
posite Main Street Depot, Richmond, Va. European 
plan, $1.00 up; American plan, $2.50 up. New and 
up-to-date, steam heated, electric lights and bell in 
every room. 




THE DAVIS HOTEL. 

The Lexington Hotel is the mos^ centrally located 
hotel in Eichmond, being situated at the corner of 
Twelfth and Main streets. All cars pass the Lex- 
ington Hotel. Rates, American plan $2.50 to $3.50. 
European $1.00 to $2.50. Felix Keegan and James 
E. Donahue, proprietors. 



Richmond. Virginia. 



65 



Woman's Christian Association. — The Woman's 
Christian Association, 709-711 E. Franklin street. 

Historic Homes. 

Among the historic homes in Richmond there is 
perhaps none that stands out in such bold relief as 
the home of Jefferson Davis, the "White House of 
the Confederacy." It stands at the corner of Twelfth 
and Clay streets, and is used as a Confederate 
museum. Miss Winnie Davis was born in this house. 

The home of Gen, R. B. Lee, on Franklin street, 




HUME OF CHIEF JUSTICE MARSHALL. 



66 



EiCHMOND Guide Book. 



is now used as the "Virginia Historical Society." 
The stone on the sidewalk in front of the house is 
said to be the one on which he dismounted when 
coming home from the surrender at Appomattox, in 
1865. 

The home of Chief Justice John Marshall, on the 
corner of Ninth and Marshall streets, is a very in- 
teresting house. He resided in this house from 
1795 to 1835. 

The Van Lew home, Twenty-fourth and Grace 
streets, Avas during the late Civil War made famous 




"WESTOVER." 

On the James River, Home of William Byrd, founder of 

Richmond. 



TviciTMOND, Virginia. 



67 



from the fact that in that house were hidden the 
Federal soldiers who "tunneled" out of Libby 
l>rison. 



\ 



Historic Homes on James River. 

Westover, home of Wm. Byrd, founder of Rich- 
mond. Now occupied by Mrs. Wm. C. Ramsey. 

Another colonial home of importance is Brandon, 
now the home of Mr. Lamb. 




INTERIOR VIEW, "WESTOVER." 

Secret Orders. 

Among the organizations the Masonic fraternity 
are among the most prominent. They own one of 
the most lieautiful temples in the South, and it is 
a source of pride to the entire city. Great gather- 
ings are held there of a social nature, and the 
''Masonic Temple" is a Imilding of which all may 
be justly proud. 



68 Richmond Guide Book. 

The Odd Fellows are numerous, and have some 
very fine halls. They have grown in numbers in 
the last three years more than any other organiza- 
tion in the city. 

The Heptasophs are an order of high standing, 
and number in their ranks many ox the most promi- 
nent men in the city. 

The Junior Order United American Mechanics are 
numerous and active, and have a large membership 
in Richmond. They have a number oi: fine halls. 

The **Elks" own one oic the most beautiful homes 
in the city, corner of Eleventh and Clay. They have 
a large membership. 

There are a number of military organizations in 
Richmond, among which in Lee Camp, which owri 
their own hall on Broad street, and have one of the 
finest picture galleries in the South. Some of the 
finest portraits of the Confederate generals in ex- 
istence are to be found in Lee Camp Hall. 

George E. Pickett Camp meets on Seventh street. 

There are four fine armories in Richmond, viz : 

Regimental Armory, Seventh and Marshall streets. 

Blues' Armory, Ninth and Cary streets. 

Howitzers' Armory, 616 North Eighth street. 

Cavalry Armory, 615 North Seventh street. 

There are also many organizations conducted by 
ladies. The most prominent one and the one hav- 



ErcHMOND^ Virginia. 69 

iiig the largest membership is the ''Woman's Chris- 
tian Temperance Union," there being in the city ten 
white and nine colored unions. Central W. C. T. U. 
has the honor of being the oldest union in the State, 
and was organized by I'rances Willard in 1882. 
The young woman's branch ifJ designated as the 

The King's Daughters have a number of circles in 
the city and do a great amount of charitable work, 
the Sh(4tering Arms Hospital being under their care. 

The Retreat for tho Sick, under a board of lady 
managers, is situated on Twelfth street. 

McGuiro's Hospital, in the western part of the 
city, is a finely- equipped building, and was founded 
by the late Dr. Hunter McGuire. 

The Little Sisters of tho Poor do a great deal of 
charity, and have a fine building in the western part 
of the city. 

The Home for Needy Confederate Women, No. 3 
West Gra^e street was established October 15, 1900, 
for Ihe purpose of caring for wives, daughters and 
mothers of Confederate soldiers who were left desti- 
tute by the war. 

Newspapers. 

The Times-Dispatch, by The Times-Dispatch Com- 
pany, J. Stewart Bryan, president. 



70 KiCHMO]NfD Guide Book:. 

News-Leader, Alfred B. Williams, editor. 

Richmond Evening Journal, Chas. B. Cooke, 
President. 

Baltimore and Richmond Christian Advocate. 

Anzeiger, morning, except Sunday and Monday, 
and Virginische Zeitung, Sundays, German. 

Religious Herald, weekly. 

Southern Churchman, weekly. 

Christian Monthly. 

Southern Planter, monthly. 

Virginia Odd-Fellow, monthly. 

Th^ Old Stone House, Nineteenth and Main. — 
The building on Main, near Nineteenth street, built 
of cobble-stones in an unhewn state, has long been 
considered and marked as the headquarters of 
George Washington, when., in truth, it was the head- 
quarters of General Lafayette, and, if he received 
while in Richmond visits from Washington, it was 
during his stay in this house, the home of Jacob 
Ege, who came to this country from Germany and 
built this house early in the eighteenth century. 
They entertained in their home many distinguished 
persons, among others, James Monroe, who was a 
personal friend of the family, as was Lafayette. 
This property has remained in the Ege family for 
several generations. 

Eandolph-Macon College is a Methodist institu- 



EiCHMOND, Virginia. 



71 



tion, but each year turns out young- men of all de- 
nominations. Its campus is on tlie east side of the 
railroad and its beauty can be apprei-iated from 
the windows of the passing trains. 




WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS. 
Main Street, between Ninteenth and Twentieth. 



Cemeteries. 

Oakwood Cemetery, in the eastern part of the 
city, contains the graves of hundreds of Confederate 
dead. 

Shockoe Cemetery is among the oldest burying 



72 ; ^ Richmond Guide Book. 

grounds in Richmond and contains the graves of a 
number of noted persons, among others Chief Jus- 
tice Marshall, and the following inscription written 
by himself appears on his tomb : 

"John Marshall, son of Thomas and Mary Mar- 
shall, was born on the 24th of September, 1755; in- 
termarried with Mary Willis Ambler, the 3d of 
January, 1783; departed this life the 6th of July, 
1835." 

Hollywood Cemetery, so named for its natural 
growth, of holly trees is not exceeded in beauty by 
any in the Union. Beautiful trees, flowers and 
fountains adorn the grounds, adding to the natural 
beauty of the cemetery. Standing on an eminence 
just above the Jefferson Davis section the tourist has 
before him. one of the most beautiful views to be 
seen around Richmond. 

The "falls of the Jamer. " rushing along the south- 
ern boundary, just beyond the railroad, sings an 
endless requiem to the sleepers in the city of the 
dead. 

A beautiful monument of granite marks the spot 
where twelve thousand Confederate soldiers are 
buried. 

A monument to G-eneral Pickett, the hero of Gettys- 
burg, marks the spot of "Gettysburg Hill." Some of 
the most famous men of history are interred in 



RrciTMOFD^ Virginia. 



(o 




CONFEDERATE MONUMENT, HOT.LYWOOD. 



irollywood — of th(^ presidents — Jolm Tyler and 
James Monroe, ex-governors Fitzhugh Lee and 
Charles T. O'Ferrall, and near them, Jefferson Davis 
and wife and daiigliter Winnie. The Davis section 



74 



Richmond Guide Book. 




Richmond^ Virginia. 75 

is beautifully laid out and a bronze statute erected 
by his wife marks the grave of Jefferson Davis. 

The grave of his daughter is marked by a monu- 
ment erected by "The Daughters of the Confed- 
eracy." 

Among other famous men buried in Hollywood 
are Generals J. E. B. Stuart, Pickett, Fitzhugh Lee, 
Wise, Pegram, William Smith, Commodore Maury 
and John Randolph. 

The Confederate soldiers' home is situated in 
the western part of the city. It was founded by 
Lee Camp Confederate Veterans, of Richmond, and 
has as inmates a great number of disabled, penniless 
soldiers, who are tenderly cared for. 

Among the leading jewelers of the city, C. Lums- 
den & Son, 731 Main street, are among the most re- 
liable. They are an old established firm and carry 
a fine line of optical goods and jewelry, diamonds 
and watches. 

The home office of the Virginia State Fire Insur- 
ance Company, is located at the corner of Main 
and Fifth streets. This Company was organized 
in 1865 and has paid over $4,000,000.00 in losses. 

All visitors to the city are invited to visit the 
observation tower on this building, from which 
point the best view of the city and surrounding 
country can be had. 




VIRGINIA STATE INSURANCE COMPANY'S BUILDING. 



Richmond^ Virginia. 77 

JAMESTOWN. 

Perhaps there is no place in the history of our 
country, around which so many sacred memories 
chister as Jamestown, Ya. ! The weary, wave-tossed 
colonists must have felt as they moored their ships 
in the harbor that it was a paradise, indeed! 

The beautiful flowers, abundant wild fruits and 
game, were to them a most welcome sight. 

As they took possession of their new home how 
their hearts must have swelled with, gratitude, and 
is it wonderful that among the first buildings to 
be erected should be an humble church in which to 
chant their praises to the Most High? 

The "ivy mantled tower" that remains as almost 
the only evidence of our forefatherr, who inhabited 
the island, is symbolic of the perpetuity of the na- 
tion they founded — America in embryo! 

As they landed the "plumed willows" waved a 
welcome, while the mocking birds and olher feath- 
ered songsters warbled welcoming lays unequaled 
by any instrument made by human hands, and the 
pathway was literally strewn with flowers. 

Jamestown island is situated about 7 miles from 
the mouth, of James river, at a point where the 
river is exceedingly wide, 



78 IiiciiMOND Guide Book. 

The island proper is about 2 3-4 miles in length 
and about 1 1-4 in width. . 

On May 13th, 1607, three "good ships," the 
"Susan Constance," "Godspeed" and "Discovery'' 
landed 54 gentlemen, 4 carpenters and 12 laborers 
on Jamestown island. 

The exact landing place cannoi be located, but 
was probably near the present landing. 

The colonists suffered greatly from want of prop- 
er food at times and also from the raids made upon 
them by the Indians. 

The old church tower is surrounded by an ancient 
graveyard. 

In 1905, the government built a "sea wall" around 
part of the islands ; skeletons were discovered and it 
is probable that the original burying ground was 
used as early as 1639. 

The mention of Jamestown brings to the mind 
of the student of history, the saving of the life of 
Capt. John Smith by the Indian maiden, Pocahontas. 
It is greatly to be regretted that so little of the real 
iife of Pocahontas has been "handed down to us," 
and a person has to draw largely on their imagina- 
tion in writing of her. We are told she was a friend 
to the whites and often supplied them with corn. In 
1612 she was bought for a brass kettle froln the 
Indian Japawas, whose wife she was visiting, and 



RlCTTMOND^ VtRGTNTA. 79 

was brought a prisoner to Jamestown. Here she 
was wooed and wed by John Rolfe, who was a wid- 
ower and quite a handsome man ; they were married 
in the old church in 1614. 

A copy from an old English Church register 
states, "Pocahontas died at Gravesend, England, 
in 1617, as she was preparing to return to America." 

Pocahontas' real name among the Indians was 
"Matoa. " A superstition existed among the In- 
dians that it was "unlucky to tell a pale face the 
real name of an Indian, hence the name "Poca- 
hontas," was given the colonists. On going to Eng- 
land, "she was baptized into the Christian faith as 
Lady Rebecca." 

John Smith died June 21st, 1631, at the age of 52, 
and is buried in St. Sepulchre's Church, London. 

The foundations of a church built in 1619 have 
recently been unearthed and can be seen inside of 
the original brick church. 

Old and gnarled trees are seen on the island, under 
whose shade the pioneers must have rested from the 
toils of the day. 

History tells us "that in all probability the first 
glass factory in America was at Jamestown, and 
iMiilt in 1608." 

A picturesque drive of 7 miles brings the tourist 
1n Williamsburg, the next cohmial capital. Back 



80 Richmond Guide Book. 

river separates the island from the main land and is 
crossed by a bridge and a road also leads through 
a part of "Powhatan's Swamp." 

Steamers en route from Richmond to Norfolk 
pass the island daily and it is a popular excursion 
point. Boats often pass at night and on passing 
the island throw the searchlight (for the benefit 
of their passengers) on the graveyard and tower; 
it produces a most weird scene, coming out of the 
darkness and the past ! Once seen never forgotten ! 

Located in the northwestern corner of the island 
can be seen old breastworks thrown up by the Con- 
federates during the Civil War. When digging for 
the breastworks, soldiers found bits of armor and 
weapons of the Jamestown period. 

The Society for the Preservation of Virginia An- 
tiquities are doing a great deal to beautify the old 
island and have recently erected a statue to Capt. 
John Smith, which adds very much to the attraction 
of the island. 



WILLIAMSBURG. 

Williamsburg, the second colonial capital, is a 
most interesting spot and of great interest to trav- 
elers. 



KlCllMOND^ VlKGINIA. 81 

III 1699, the burning of the State House at James- 
town, rendered it necessary to move the seat of 
power to Williamsburg. 

The town was laid out by Colonial Governor, Sir 
John Harvey, in 1632, and called the "Middle Plan- 
tation," in 1698, the Governor, Franci:i Nicholson, 
laid out and named it for the reigning sovereign, 
King William. 

The town or city of Williamsburg is situated on a 
peninsula between the 1^'ork and James Rivers, and 
many buildings of former days are pointed out to 
visitors. Martha Washington's kitchen and an elm 
tree said to have been planted by her are still sou- 
venirs of the past of which the people are justly 
proud. 

Duke of Gloucester is the main s'reet, while two 
streets run parallel, named for the colonial gov- 
ernors, Francis and Nicholson. Other streets bear 
the names, "England, Piccadilly, Scotland and Taze- 
well." 

William and Mary College, founded in 1693, is 
a most imposing old building, built of imported red 
and blue glazed brick. The charter was granted by 
William and Mary. The chapel in the rear was 
built under contract of William Byrd, of Westover. 
Tn the college campus stands the monument of Lord 
Botetourt, governor of Virginia in 1768-70. The in- 



82 Richmond Guide Book. 

scription on his monument shows how dearly he was 
loved by his countrymen. It was erected in 1774, 
by the House of Burgesses. Many distinguished men 
have been students of William and Mary College. 
Among them Chief Justice John Marshall, Thomas 
Jefferson, John Tyler, both became presidents of the 
United States, also James Monroe, General Win- 
field Scott, and a number of prominent men of the 
United States, claim this historic old college as 
their alma mater. 

Old Bruton Parish Church is perhaps one of the 
most interesting places to which the tourist will 
turn and is very closely connected with colonial 
history. It was the successor to the Old Church at 
Jamestown. 

Within its walls five presidents of the United 
States have worshipped, viz. : Washington, Jefferson, 
Madison, Monroe and Tyler. In ''ye olden time" 
came the colonial governors and members of the 
House of Burgesses and many men of note in the 
early days. It is the oldest Episcopal church in 
America that is in constant use. The parish was 
founded in 1632. 

It is said the baptismal font that is now used in 
the ancient church is the same used at Jamestown 
and from which the Indian princess, Pocahontas, 



IticirMONp^ Virginia. 83 

was baptized; however, this cannot be vouched for 
as a fact. 

King Edward VII has recently presented a Bible 
to the church and President Roosevelt has given a 
lectern on which the Bible will rest. 

George AVashington's step-children, the Custis 
children, are buried in the old church yard near the 
nortli door. 

"Diinmore's Cave" is shown the tour'st. It is 
an underground passage and extends to where his 
palace once stood and it is thought he used it to 
conceal his ammunition, or as a mems of escape 
from foes. He was a most cruel and lyrannical 
governor and disliked b}^ all. 

The old court house built in 1769, is of peculiar 
interest. It has a long stone porch, and strange lo 
say, without columns. A very high belfry, containing 
a bell which called our Revolutionary fathers to- 
gether for council, si ill sends forlh its silver notes. 

Quite near the court house is an ancient building 
called the "Powder Horn." It was built by an act 
of the House of Burgesses in 1714, during the reign 
of George the First, and during the administration 
of Gov. Spotswood. The walls are twenty-two inches 
thick. 

The old "Raleigh Tavern" is full of associations 
of the past. Festivities of every description were 



84 Richmond Guide Book. 

held in this old tavern. This celebrated house was 
destroyed by fire in 1859. 

There is nothing left to mark the spot of the 
House of Burgesses but a heap of ruins directly op- 
posite old William and Mary College at the other 
end of the town. The "father of our country" 
made his first speech in the House of Burgesses. 

The site of the first theatre in America was on 
the southeast corner of Blair Avenue, built in 1716. 

The Masons of the United States who visit Wil- 
liamsburg will find on Francis street, the first 
Masonic temple to organize a grand lodge in Amer- 
ica. 

The Eastern State Hospital is situated on Francis 
street and surrounded by a fine lawn or park. An 
act was passed in 1769 — in the 10th year of the 
reign of George III — to make provision for insane 
and lunatics, etc. It was completed in 1773 and is 
the oldest insane asylum in the United States. Wil- 
liamsburg is 48 miles from Richmond, via C. & 0. 
R. R. 

YORKTOWN. 

The colony of Virginia was divided into eight 
counties in 1634, and Charles River was formed, but 
was later changed to York. 



Richmond^ Virginia. 85 

"Yorke Towne" was laid out in 1619. The original 
seal is still preserved. 

Yorktown stands on the brow of a hill and over- 
looks a fine harbor, with a magnificent view of 
Chesapeake Bay. 

The village contains about one hundred and fifty 
inhabitants. 

The custom house, built in 1715, is still pointed out 
to visitors. 

The first church in I'orktown was built in 1697, 
and was burned in 1814, and has since been rebuilt. 

Old Swan Tavern stands on Main street. The 
original inn was built in 1722. 

One of the most tasteful houses in the village is 
the Nelson House, built in 1740-41. It is a large 
]>rick building with stone trimmings and faces the 
river. A grand ball was given in this old home to 
General Lafayette when he visited Yorktown. 

The Confederates during the Civil AVar used this 
b-nilding as a hospital; secret panels built in the 
liouse lead to rooms in the various parts. It was 
also used by Cornwallis during the Revolution as 
liis headquarters. 

The marks of cannon balls are to be seen in three 
j)lnr<es. One is im'bedded in the brick. The owner 
of this old home succeeded Thomas Jefferson as Gov^ 
ernor of Virginia. 



86 EiCHMOND Guide Book. 

The old ''British fortifications" are still to be seen 
at 1 orktown. 

The surrender of Lord Cornwallis, October 19, 
1781, is an epoch in American history of which 
even the school children are perfectly familiar, and 
the Moore house on the Temple farm in which the 
terms of surrender were written, by order of Wash- 
ington and signed by Cornwallis, is seen by travelers 
as a place of great historic interest. 

A high stone monument stands near the river as 
a memorial to the brave deeds of our soldiers and 
to the surrender of Cornwallis. The sculptured 
words: "One destiny, one country, one constitu- 
tion/' exprcvsses all. 



, '^ 



RlCHMOIfD, ViEGINIA. 87 

CONTENTS 

Page. 

Introductory 5-8 

Agricultural Department . .23 

Battlefields 46-50 

Belle Isle ,. 45 

Chair, Speaker's . . , 12 

Capitol Building, Illustrated 7-9 

Clay Monument, Illustrated 20 

Capitol Disaster 23 

Churches 54-56 

Cemeteries — Hollywood and Oakwood 71-73 

Ex-Governor Smith's Monument 19 

Governor's Mansion, Illustrated 10 

Houdon's Statue of Washington, Illustrated 17-18 

Home of Edgar Allan Poe 45 

Hartshorn Memorial College, Illustrated 55-56 

Historic Homes 67 

Jamestown 77 

Jefferson Davis' Mansion, Illustrated 40-41 

Law Library 40 

Lee Home — Virginia Historical Society 65 

Lee Monument, Illustrated 21 

Masonic Hall, Old ,' 43 

Newspapers 69-70 

Old Stove 12 

Public Schools 54-55 

Richmond College 58-59 

Randolph-Macon College 70 

Streets 8 

St. John's Church, Illustrated 43 

St. Paul's Church 44 

State Library, Illustrated 24-27 

Stonewall Jackson's Monument, Illustrated 18 

Smithdeal College, Illustrated 57 

Secret Orders 67 

Washington Monument, Illustrated 13-16 

Williamsburg 80-84 

Washington's Old Headquarters, Illustrated 70-71 

W. C. T. U 69 

Yorktown 84-86 



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MUTUAL BUILDING, RICHMOND, VA. 

nrHE celebrated "Bail Bond'' of Jefferson 
-■■ Davis — also Historical Papers, Letters, Con- 
federate Money and Coins — Souvenirs of rare 
value at the Souvenir Stand at the State Library. 

Address SOUVENIR DEP'T, 

State Library, Riciimond, Va. 




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Address, 

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Sale of Libraries, Antiques, and Art Collections a Specialty 
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No. 1617 West Main Street 
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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